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Of the most frequently asked questions, one of the most common is about getting lumber flat and square. A powered jointer is often recommended, but they are expensive, take up a lot of space, and have a limited capacity. There are many other easy alternatives to a jointer. Last week I did a 101 on getting faces of a board flat and square. That needs to be done before tackling the edges - no matter how you chose to square and edge.

Why This Technique?

Why not hand tools? That's the way I currently do it, but honestly it's hard. Edge jointing with planes is not easy. It also requires a jointer plane (or a lot of skill with smaller planes). Personally I do use hand planes, but only recommend it if you are a heavy hand tool user. If you want to do it all with hand tools, this video is good. It's not a "professional" how-to. It's how an average hobbyist would go abut it in their garage or basement shop

Why not a router table? There is a router table method. I hate it. Like with a jointer, you are limited in the size you can effectively joint by the size of your table. Long piece get tricky on a small table. Also, the set up needs to be precise. That means constant tiny adjustments. Pardon my french but Fuck. That. This method requires exactly zero adjustments, measurements, or fucks given to get better results

Why not a tablesaw? Because it requires yet another jig. I'm sick of jigs. I have more jigs than I have hair on my head. This process is just as easy and requires zero jigs. However the tablesaw jig method does work really well and if you are not comfortable with a router - that's your best bet.

Tools Needed:

Router

Flush Trim bit

Clamps/Holdfasts

Square

A piece of MDF or a known flat surface

Router. I am using a Craftsman Professional 2.5hp router with a plunge base. This router is awesome. However it's no longer made. I have no experience with the new one and based on brand reputation, I cannot recommend it without first using it. If you don't have a router, I'd highly recommend the bosch.

I am using the plunge base here because I only use a plunge base out of the table. However there is no reason a fixed base cannot be used

Flush trim bit. I use this one, and highly recommend it. Do not go cheap here. This is 2" long so you can joint 8/4 stock, and it will last a long time. 24.00 for a premium router bit is very reasonable.

A square. I'm using a starrett double square, use what you have that is actually square.

A reference surface. I am using my workbench because I know it is square to the edge, and I maintain that squareness. However the factory edge of MDF is dead square. Buy a shelf for 2.00 and use that. These shelves are available in 8 foot lengths too.

PROCESS

1 - Start with a rough edge. This butternut is shaggy, lumpy, and not at all square. I need to fix that.

2 - Get set up. Not pictured - safety goggles. Also not pictured - the dust shroud and vacuum I was too lazy to hook up and regretted it later.

3 - Get a reference surface. Like mentioned above I use my bench. It's a trusted and verified reference surface in my shop. If yours is not, get something that is. The factory edge of sheet goods is awesome. I prefer MDF over ply because it's smoother. However if you have ply, use it (after you verify it). Another reason I like MDF is you don't need to buy a huge piece. For 2.00 you can get a shelf board and use that. 8 foot lengths are also available.

4 - Secure your board. you want the board to overhang your MDF/Bench/Whatever a little along the entire length. How much is "a little"? Less than "a lot". It doesn't matter. It also doesn't matter at all if the overhang is even along the length. I have no reference surface yet. I am creating one.

5 - Check the overhang. This picture is what I mean by "a little". I just don't want the router taking too big of a bite. You can see how there is a lot more sticking out in the center than the edges. On some boards you may have to take two passes.

6 - Check your clearance You definitely want to secure the board so it doesn't move while routing. Make sure your routers base clears your holfasts/clamps

7 - Set bit depth. Here you can see the magic. This process works because of that bearing. It rides along the edge of the reference surface, creating a flat, straight cut. I set it so the bearing and collar barely clear the work piece along it's length. Also this was a hard picture to take with a Galaxy Note 5. Also the Galaxy note 5 takes better low light pics than my DSLR

8 - Route it. This is a long bit so I dialed the speed back. No action shots, but it's easy. Start on one end, push the router down to the other. Because of the bearing, the bit will not cut into your reference surface. I should have used dust collection. This is what didn't end up down my shirt and in my face

9 - Done. Nice reference edge. That's it. I doubt this took me 2 minutes from start to finish. This is now dead square and also dead flat. Now you can ride this edge against the fence of your tablesaw to bring the other side in parallel.

The mods are implored to automatically put up /u/joelav 's 101 Posts in the sidebar ! Awesome idea and awesome series.

It was actually /u/nesportsman 's idea. I just play along

Can we get a tag for all the woodworking 101 posts? And possibly link them in the sidebar?

These are, quite simply, AMAZING, but the reddit search engine sucks and I'm worried we're going to lose track of them :(

Use this google search instead. Google is better than Reddit at finding Reddit posts.

https://www.google.com/#q=site:reddit.com%2Fr%2Fwoodworking+101

Nicely explained, with one oversight that also bit me when doing this:

You need make sure the bit is not cutting with the grain, such that it would lift up splinters instead of cutting them off. In step 4, you'd run the router from left->right, but the grain is such that you risk tearout.

If you're going to do a bunch of this, it also helps to get a 'sheer angle' flush trim bit to reduce tearout. -

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html?zoom_highlight=flush+bit

Agreed and good tip. I've never had an issue but that's because I keep the passes to 1/16th MAX. A compression spiral is even better. I didn't want to do a "101" with a $150.00 router bit but that MLCS bit looks like it will do the trick

so what can you do to avoid this? flip the board over since you cant reverse the direction the router goes?

Wow this is brilliant. I would have never thought to reference my bench. Thanks for sharing dude!

I don't spend all that time keeping it flat and square for nothing!

Just wanted to stop by and express my appreciation for those of you who post 101s like this. Great read for a novice like myself. Thank you!

As a newer woodworker, I have found the Monday Woodworking 101 series that u/joelav and u/nesportman incredibly helpful.

So far, this my favorite tip. I have tried the router table method and couldn't get it flat. This is brilliant.

Thanks for all the work y'all put into these posts. Easy to comprehend.

I've tried the router table method dozens of times. None were really successful without tons of trial and error. This method is dead simple every time. I know a lot of people have an aversion to hand held routing - and it can be dangerous, but this is my preferred power tool method of jointing

Thanks for the awesome post. Can you help me understand how to determine the right speed to set on a router? What do the numbers on the speed adjuster mean? How do they translate into RPM?

How do bit sizes change the speed you should use?

As for feeding the router, how much is too much?

I broke 2 bits this past weekend while getting acquainted with my new router. One was, I'm sure, feeding too much. Another was probably due to the bit not being secured enough and it was puled out of the collet.

I had a bit get stuck 2 weeks ago and even the dudes at Woodcraft were scratching their heads at how it got stuck so bad, one of them helped me get it out and it took about 20 minutes. I guess I've been a bit worried about getting another one stuck.

The speed you set your router at mostly depends on the size of the bit. The bigger the bit the slower the speed should be set at. There isn't a uniform guide to how different manufacturers label the speed settings which can be annoying. Some will list the RPM for each setting in the manual but not all do. If you contact the manufacturer they might be able to give you RPMs for each setting. Otherwise you can look at the maximum and minimum speeds then figure out what the increment between each setting is using the total number of settings.

As a general guide I suggest a maximum speed of 24,000 RPM for bit up to 1", 18,000 RPM for bits between 1 and 2", 16,00RPM for bits between 2 and 2.5". Once you get into bits larger than that I would just go for the slowest setting and only use them if the router is mounted in a table. Those are just the maximum I would go. If you're taking big cuts or using shaping bits it would be wise to slow it down a bit. As you use a router you will get a feel for what speed works with each type of bit. High end bits will usually do better at faster speeds as they usually have better balance. If you feel any wobble in the router slow the bit down until it is gone and if it doesn't go away replace the bit.

When routing it's always best to take lighter cuts and do multiple passes if rather than trying to take heavy cuts. Feed speed is also something you'll get a feel for as you use the router more. I think the best way to describe it would be as fast as you can without forcing it. If you're bit is getting excessively hot or you're burning the wood you are either going to fast or too slow.

I think the main reason bits get stuck in the collet is because there is dust or debris either on the shank or in the collet. Debris in the collet can cause the bit to move off centre and bind when you tighten the collet. This might also be why you had a bit come loose. If there is debris in the collet when you tighten it down on the bit the fingers of the collet might not grip down on the shank of the bit properly causing it to come loose when the bit is spinning. I would recommend taking the collet and nut off the router to clean them after each use. It is also worth cleaning the bits every now and then to get rid of any pitch build up. Cleaning router bits uses the same process as cleaning table saw blades.

Can you help me understand how to determine the right speed to set on a router?

This chart is handy. There are special circumstances where you should slow a bit down. Like this one being 2" long. The packaging will tell you

What do the numbers on the speed adjuster mean?

They are there to remind you that even though this router is an absolute gem and one of the best on the market at the time, it's still a Craftsman - so it has to be shitty in some way

How do they translate into RPM?

With the users manual I have since memorized after consulting it 8 dozen times

As for feeding the router, how much is too much?

It depends. Cop out answer, but it really does. Generally I won't take off more than 1/8" of material in a single pass with a router. There are exceptions like joinery bits (lock miter, rail and stile, dovetail, etc) where you HAVE to take the full profile in one pass.

As for feeding the router, how much is too much?

Same answer. The router will let you know. You should have very little level of effort. If you have to force it, you are going too fast. If you are burning, you are going too slow. Determining feed rate and spindle speed comes with practice.

I broke 2 bits this past weekend while getting acquainted with my new router. One was, I'm sure, feeding too much. Another was probably due to the bit not being secured enough and it was puled out of the collet.

Don't buy cheap bits. If it was a cheap bit, that happens. Also something very important. Don't bottom out the bit. Bits get super hot. When the do they expand. If there is no room in the collet, it's going to force itself out. 9 times out of 10 the issue is not a loose collet, but an expanding bottomed out bit

Savings this for later when I sell my jointer (takes up too much space at the moment).

Robert Wearing's method of jointing with a cambered iron is actually quite simple once you get the hang of it. Have you read The Essential Woodworker?

To be fair I've never jointed anything over 4' by hand

I have, it's a great book. It's the "getting the hang of it" part that is off-putting. When you are new it's hard and frustrating. With this method, there is nothing to get the hang of. Not to mention the fact that the precursor to edge jointing is getting the hang of a plane. And the precursor to that is getting the hang of sharpening.

As a long term strategy I would recommend hand planing, but this method can be used to augment it as a sort of "reset switch" if hand planing attempts are not going well

Personally I do use hand planes, but only recommend it if you are a heavy hand tool user.

I think he addressed that. It works, but it's not as quick and easy for the average person.

Why not a tablesaw? Because it requires yet another jig. I'm sick of jigs.

But... jigs are so fun to make.

Honestly though I use my normal tablesaw sled for squaring up anything under 24". I cut a couple channels into my sled on each side of the blade so hold down clamps can attach to the sled (which help for a million different reasons). Just clamp a board in there quick and run it through the saw. Now you have a flat edge that you can square everything else up to with the same sled.

For long, heavy awkward stock I do like the router method though. Like you, I use the factory edge of a sheet of MDF or plywood for a reference guide. This works great for anything up to 8' long. I almost never work with stock longer than that.

I currently do not own any long planes and I lack the skill to effectively joint boards with my jack plane. I spent a couple hours trying to joint the edge of a board this past weekend with my jack. I could have spent two minutes doing this instead. This is awesome. Until I own my own jointer plane/build up my planing skills more/buy a jointer, I'm using this all the time. This is seriously one of the greatest woodworking tips I've seen in a long time!

Dude, you are a lifesaver. Such a simple method. I got a bunch of barn wood yesterday and my lady wants a rustic dining room table. I will be using this method tomorrow. Great post.

Good call, Joe. Though I gotta say, I think you're (ironically) overstating the case against hand tools here. I'm a damned moron when it comes to hand work, but with my 8, I can joint anything. I know I'm a lucky sonofagun for getting one, but if anybody's so inclined, it's a quick path to a jointed board edge.