The Great Sea of Sand outside of the Siwa Oasis in Egypt

As an Egyptian-American, I regularly visit the country where my father was born.  I also have the added benefit of being surrounded by an family that loves the outdoors and the ancient world.  I was 30 years old the first time I visited the Siwa Oasis.  Unfortunately, I wasn't ready for what I encountered.  It was the summer of 2002 and I went on a trip to the Mediterranean coast.  I was prepared for many lazy days on the beach, watching the tides come and go and basking in the cool coastal breeze that never lets you forget why you came there.  But just after one day, Moustapha had the idea of going into the desert! 

"Let's go to Siwa.  Don't worry it's just a short drive.  We'll be there in no time," said my wife's uncle. 

Well, it was a long and hot drive in the desert.  Our car dodged semi-wild camels that impulsively crossed the road as we approached.  The car's air-conditioning was on full blast and still not enough.  The heat from the outside was telling us to go back.  Nevertheless, we continued.

Arriving at Siwa was much like arriving at Death Valley.  The road meandered through rocky lifeless cliffs and slowly descended into a surreal flatness of sand.  But unlike Death Valley, Siwa is much higher in elevation.  The oasis hosts a thriving community known as the Amazigh who claim the it as one of the major spiritual and cultural centers for their tribal nation that spans most of North Africa. 

"We only have two hours here before we have to head back to the coast," said Moustapha. 

"Wait what?" I said.

Well I can tell you those two hours weren't enough.  I couldn't remember a thing.  I do remember getting out of the car and getting hit by a wave of heat that pushed me back in every time.  I had a Minolta point-and-shoot camera with me, but I was so distracted by the heat that never really took any memorable pictures.

So by the time we came back to California, I said to my wife.  "You know what.  I think I want to visit Siwa again on my 50th birthday." 

And then I forgot about it. 

But one day in the Spring of 2022, my wife remembered. 

"Aren't you turning 50 this summer?"

"Yes"

"Didn't you say you wanted to visit Siwa for your 50th?"

"Well, yeah, but I didn't think anyone took me seriously."

"Well, Moustapha can make that happen if you want."

And it happened.  But this time, the weather was cooperative and I was prepared.  I brought my Hasselblad and plenty of film with me.  We visited the old town of Siwa which is soon to be a World Heritage site.  We entered the Greco-Roman tombs that sat above the town.  We had tea at sunset by Lake Siwa and swam in watering holes that kept you afloat because they were 95% salt. 

But we saved the best for last.  We hired drivers who knew each sand dune like the back of their hands.  They sailed through the desert and navigated our cars to the Great Sea of Sand.  I rushed out of the car and immediately went to work.  The light was perfect.  I just sat there gazing at the slowly setting sun, soaking up the cool desert breeze and sinking my feet into the soft sands.

This photo was from that moment.  I still get teary-eyed just thinking about it.